A String of Pearls Across the Sea
There are places in this world that seem to exist purely to remind us of the earth's capacity for wonder, and the Exumas are undeniably among them. Stretching like a string of pearls across the impossibly clear waters of the Bahamas, this archipelago of 365 cays is the quintessential dream of the cruising sailor. To drop anchor here is to step into a living postcard, where the water transitions through a hundred shades of blue — from the palest aquamarine over the sandbanks to the deep, resonant indigo of the Exuma Sound.
"The Exumas are not a destination. They are a state of mind — one that makes it very difficult to ever leave."
Essential Stops Along the Way
Sailing through these islands is an exercise in sensory overload. The days are measured not by clocks, but by the arc of the sun and the shifting of the tides. Here are the anchorages and stops that no cruising sailor should miss:
- Staniel Cay — The social heart of the Exumas. Anchor off the Staniel Cay Yacht Club, dinghy to the famous Thunderball Grotto for snorkeling, and watch the nurse sharks glide through the crystal shallows at Compass Cay. The Staniel Cay Yacht Club serves cold Kalik beer and the best cheeseburger in the Bahamas.
- Warderick Wells — Home to the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, the first land and sea preserve in the Caribbean. No fishing, no collecting, no anchoring on coral. The reward is an underwater world of breathtaking abundance — reef sharks, eagle rays, and coral gardens that feel entirely untouched.
- Shroud Cay — A maze of mangrove creeks that open into a stunning ocean-side beach. Dinghy up the creek on a rising tide and emerge onto a deserted beach with rolling Atlantic surf. It is one of the most magical experiences in the entire Bahamas.
- Highbourne Cay — The northern gateway to the Exumas, with a well-stocked marina, fuel, and the best provisioning in the chain. The anchorage off the southern tip is protected and beautiful.
- Big Major's Spot (Pig Beach) — Yes, the swimming pigs are real. Anchor off the beach and watch as a squadron of very well-fed pigs swims out to greet your dinghy. It is absurd, delightful, and utterly unforgettable.
- George Town, Great Exuma — The cruiser's capital of the Bahamas. Volleyball Beach, the cruiser's net on VHF 72, the Regatta in February, and the warm community of sailors who have been drawn here and simply never left.
The Magic of the Quiet Moments
But the true magic of the Exumas lies not in the famous stops, but in the moments of quiet discovery. It is finding a hidden cove where no other mast is in sight, walking a beach where the only footprints are your own, and watching the sun dip below the horizon in a blaze of fiery orange and violet.
For the liveaboard couple, it is a place to reconnect — with nature, with the rhythm of the sea, and with each other. The bioluminescence at night turns the water around your hull into liquid starlight. The silence is so complete that you can hear the fish feeding on the reef. It is a destination that captures the heart and refuses to let go.
The Exumas are best visited between November and May, when the trade winds blow reliably from the east and southeast, the seas are calm, and the water temperature is perfect for swimming. Plan for at least three weeks — you will want more.
In the Exumas, time does not pass. It simply dissolves into the color of the water.
Photo by Kalen Emsley on Unsplash